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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Atwood water heater
I’ve had a couple issues with my Atwood, one that is still bothersome is that it takes about 4-6 retries for the gas to stay running. Starts right up after a short shutoff.
I’ve cleaned all connections and contacts on the PCB and have voltage where needed. My last problem was on the last day of my most recent trip was the lose of hot water, gas and electric. I lucked out and found that a recently installed thermostat was defective. I replaced both of them. SUGGESTION: when removing wire from thermostats put some pressure between the wire connectors as mine was extremely tight and when attempting to pull the wires off I pulled the entire thermostat out.
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visch1
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10/06/08 03:32am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Atwood water heater, NO SPARK AND NO GAS
I was lucky and quickly found the reason mine wouldn't heat up, gas or electric, was a couple month old Tstat that went bad. I just pulled the wires off and connected them, it fired right up.
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visch1
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09/28/08 04:09am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Owen Micro Quiet 4000 Generator
I have a condition like yours and found that if I get it running and it shuts in a couple seconds wait about 30 seconds and try again. Maybe something to do with pumping fuel to the carb?
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visch1
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09/23/08 03:45am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood water heater working intermittently
My suggestion is to make sure the voltage is up around 12.5+ and make sure the ground for the heater is clean, I’d even start at the battery(s) and then the frame ground. I call this step # 1 as all other suggestions, though good can easily fail if either of these are below good condition. I recently had a very flaky thermostat, though fairly new, go bad. This can be checked if your up to it by carefully pulling the 2 thermostat wires off and carefully not allowing any contact with other metal, jump the wires with something like a small bent paper clip. If it works change the thermostat. It could also be the wire connectors on the thermostat have corrosion buildup which will lower the voltage enough so it will appear the contacts inside appear open and not fire off.
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visch1
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09/21/08 04:06am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Cover's
I’m not going to use one. I was away for several weeks and covered my 15 foot boat in the driveway to keep out leaves etc. Both ends were wide open. When it was uncovered it looked as black with mold as it does after its 6 month winter vacation. So I won’t cover the RV as I assume it’ll leak a bit and then that’s another spring cleaning project.
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visch1
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09/20/08 02:16am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: WATER PUMP. PROBLEM?
Many people refer to this as an "On Demand" water pump system. It is also another way to tell if you have a plumbing leak... if you hear the water pump come on every so often when no one is using water, that most likely means you have a leak somewhere.
These answers sound good to me. I hate to try to fix something that aint broke. At home a long time ago I hooked a night light into the pump circuit to indicate it's being on, seeing the pump is about 50 feet down the pipe, every so often when I haven't used the water for awhile and see the light on I ask if SO just used the water. THANKS
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visch1
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09/18/08 01:03pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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WATER PUMP. PROBLEM?
At home I have a water pump that comes on after using around 6-7 gallons or when the pressure drops to about 45#. My ’06 RVs pump comes on as soon as any, 1 ounce even, is used and continues to run until water is shut off. Is this normal operation? TIA
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visch1
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09/18/08 03:20am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Atwood = no hot water
OK!!!! I started with the T stats and pulled the wires and jumped them with a paper clip (to bypass the T stat) BINGO, now both gas and electric are working. Ticks me off as about a month ago I replaced the same one because I pulled the whole assembly out trying to get the wires off the original one. THANKS AGAIN
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visch1
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09/15/08 08:05am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Atwood = no hot water
Thanks for the suggestions BUT I'm having a problem with the electric and gas, neither are working. I'm wondering if a cir. breaker or a main fuse is gone though checking what I think are all of them seem OK. Could be an open thermostat I suppose also. Still dark out but am gathering the tools and meter.
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visch1
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09/15/08 03:37am |
Class C Motorhomes
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Atwood = no hot water
I've been getting all the hot water needed,all by 120 volts. With the electric switches in the correct position there is no heated water now. Shutting off switches and trying gas only results in no gas start up try at all. I tapped the thermostats with no results, pulled the edge cir. board connector, and checked the 2 amp fuse on the heater and it's good. I couldn't find any other fuses to check anywhere so need some helpful ideas. Unit is in a RV that was sold as "new" last Oct. as a '06 and is a gas AND electric Atwood GCH6A-10E. HELP!!!! and TYIA
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visch1
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09/14/08 02:46pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: hoohing up to cable tv
"Also on a side note, I'd suggest getting some tools for replacing the end connectors and learn how to use them. Its not very often, but once in a while after quite a bit of use and dampness, a cable will break. The tools aren't expensive and are very simple to use."
Good idea. Radio Shack has the end fittings that press or screw in so a crimper is not needed tho I prefer to crimp.
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visch1
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08/26/08 06:18am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Adding a Tachometer to an old C
I'm cheap but will spend if the item is cost justifiable to me. I purchased a ScanGuage2, so much more info than a vacuum gauge, and pricier.
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visch1
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08/19/08 03:08am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Entering the Class C world
Again be aware of storage space weight limits. I have a Bigfoot 29G and it has space to put in a ATV if I had one. I recently noticed a weight limit for that space to be 325 pounds, and it's about 4 foot high.
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visch1
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08/19/08 02:29am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Bigfoot 30MH27DSL question
In my ’06 29G the pump and drain access is located about 6 feet in back of the driver in the storage compartment. It has 2 small doors for access, 1 for pump, other for drain which takes hours it seems.
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visch1
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08/06/08 06:43am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Generators that sit idle
Hi Mike. I use Sea Foam in all my engines from the E-Tech to the weed wacker and ocassionally the car. I expect to leave around 1/2 or so tank of fuel in the MH and stabalize that also. I've only used the gen around 5 times and was frustrated by what I call fair starting quality like yours. I'll try your procedure later.
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visch1
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08/04/08 01:49am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Generators that sit idle
"What is Sea Foam and where does one get it? Is it similar to Stabelizer?" It does more than regular stabalizer : http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm
I get it at NAPA. GOOD STUFF.
All these replys has me scared the thing will fall apart as salt is used on the roads in the winter and I live in a salt laden atmosphere less than 1/2 mile from the Atlantic Ocean. Arizona here I come!
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visch1
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08/03/08 04:11pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Generators that sit idle
I know enough to question a lot of what I read in most of the forums on topics from gardens, cars, boats etc. A lot is good intentioned but often misinformed. Its like my father did it that way as did my grandfather, so it's got to be correct because thats the only way I know. For instance, a lot of people buy boat trailers with expensive multi rollers to roll the boat on and off yet sink the rollers under water to float the boat on and off which a cheaper and better bunk trailer is designed for. WHY, because thats the way, fill in the blanks.
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visch1
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08/03/08 05:01am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Generators that sit idle
Hello again and thanks for the above info. I’ve used Sea Foam for years in my outboard engines, snow blower, house gen, lawn mowers etc. for both its stabilization quality, cleaning ability, both gum and carbon. I have in back of my head a statement, probably a bit overstated but in the ball park: this new gas lasts about as long as milk stays fresh. I used to run the carb bowls dry then it was pointed out that gaskets and seals will dry out and be a problem.
Any ideas where the idea came from that the charging part of a generator needs to be exercized. WHY? Facts please.
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visch1
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08/03/08 02:17am |
Class C Motorhomes
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Generators that sit idle
I have a 4K Onan generator in my past June acquired ’06 class C. I understand the need to run them under load as opposed to letting them sit idle for long periods, so I run it every 2 weeks with the air conditioner on for about ½ hour and so far it has 8 hours running time. The last time I ran it I had put into the ½ full gas tank a can of Sea Foam for it’s cleaning and preservative qualities.
For periods of not using the Rv much instead of using full cans of Sea foam I’m thinking of putting lets say 2 gallons of gas in a small boat fuel tank with Sure Foam added in a stronger solution. I’d run the generator as usual, shut it off and connect the hose to the carb intake tube, pump fuel into the carb and run it for lets say 5 minutes. The main reason is to prevent gumming up the carb. I’m wondering if there is a fuel pump pumping fuel into the carb and any downsides to the above "brain storm"? OK start throwing rocks. TIA
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visch1
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08/02/08 03:19pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: re caulking
I’m one of those that in most cases only want to do a job once, in this case I never want to do caulk again because of leaks! I choose to remove old caulk, clean area and apply 3M 4200 caulk and Eternabond tape. Most might say overkill but I'm lazy and prefer fishing to kneeling on a roof on nice days just about every year.
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visch1
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07/29/08 06:01am |
Class C Motorhomes
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